EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 P2 Power Supply Review

Packaging, Contents And Exterior

Packaging

The PSU comes in a large and heavy box, which is expected given the device's huge dimensions. Thankfully, there is a handle to help you move the packaging around more easily.

The face of the box displays the model number in a large font, along with a much smaller series description. Obviously, EVGA wanted to highlight the capacity since there are so few 1.6kW PSUs available with Platinum efficiency. The 80 PLUS badge is located in the bottom-left corner, and is tiny.

One of the two sides displays only EVGA's logo, while the other side has the company's typical marketing fare focusing on its graphics cards. We believe that the time has come to change this marketing material, since it's somewhat outdated.

There's some useful information at the back of the box, including a long list of the product's important features. Another list depicts the included cables and the available connectors in the 1600 P2. Near the bottom-right corner is the power specifications table, along with a series of icons describing various compliances.

Three small images focus on the quiet fan (as described by EVGA's claims), the Japanese caps and the PSU's fully modular cable design. In addition, a graph demonstrates the operation of the fan with the ECO (semi-passive) mode enabled. According to that graph's details, the fan starts to spin when the internal temperature reaches 55 °C. That's a pretty high level, but the Japanese caps are rated for 105 °C and handle it easily. After all, EVGA wouldn't offer a 10-year warranty if the company wasn't confident about this platform's reliability.

Contents

Two foam spacers protect the PSU. Moreover, it comes wrapped in a cloth bag, imprinted with EVGA's logo.

The bundle includes a set of fixing bolts, some Velcro straps and an ATX-bridging plug. This plug comes in handy if you want to start the PSU without actually powering on a machine (like when you want to check if your liquid cooling system works properly). You also get a large number of modular cables, and EVGA provides a pouch to store the unused ones in.

The provided power cable is very thick, and as you can see from the photos, it features a heavy-duty C19 connector. This connector is essential, since during full load the PSU draws more than 15A from the wall with 115VAC input.

Exterior

The double-textured matte coating is fingerprint-proof and isn't scratched easily. At the front side, we find the usual honeycomb-style mesh and a C20 inlet. Right next to the latter is a large on/off switch. On both sides, large decals display the unit's specification and the huge bottom side has only two, small stickers.

The fully modular panel hosts a number of sockets, since the huge power levels this unit delivers have to be transferred to the system. Near the bottom-left corner is a small switch that activates the ECO (semi-passive) mode. It looks like a totally foreign object there. We assume that it took over the place of a peripheral connector, suggesting its placement was decided on late in the design process. Really, this switch should be located on the front, where it would be more accessible. As it is now, you have to access the system's internals to reach the switch.

EVGA uses hex-shaped screws instead of standard screws, probably to discourage users from cracking open the PSU. Here, we should note that breaking apart a PSU not only voids the warranty, but can also be dangerous. The APFC capacitors keep their charge for a long time after the supply is disconnected from the mains power, so opening the unit carries the risk of a short electric shock.

The punched-out fan grill gives the PSU a unique look. Some will like it and others may prefer a different design. Be that as it may, this unit is eye-catching, not only because of its quality external build and nice finish, but also thanks to its huge dimensions that make even the 140mm fan look small.

All of the unit's cables are stealth. However, they aren't flat, and this is a shame. In a PSU with so many wires, flat versions could make cable management easier. On top of that, they block airflow significantly less than normal cables. Since this is an expensive and top-of-the-line product, we expected EVGA to make it stand out from the rest of the G2 and P2 units and offer flat cables.

Cabling

All cables are fullly sleeved, of course. Although the sleeve quality isn't the best we've seen, it is satisfactory.

If you need higher quality and more attractive cables, then you can select one of EVGA's individually-sleeved cabling kits. They aren't cheap though, priced at $90 each).

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25 comments
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  • damric
    Good review, but missing the hot box testing to see if this thing regulates and suppresses ripple at 50C as advertised.
  • Aris_Mp
    All tests were conducted at high ambient temperatures which during full load were above 47C. Only the Cross-Load tests were conducted at 28-30C.
  • SinxarKnights
    I appreciate the detailed review.
  • Giannis Karagiannis
    Very detailed review indeed. There isn't really anything that could be covered and it is not. I don't think that there are many PSU manufacturers out there that can test their products so extensively.
  • Dark Lord of Tech
    Too light for me I have the 2000w coming from Dabs when it comes to retail.
  • Aris_Mp
    I had the opportunity to test the 2 kW model (from Super Flower) and it is indeed superb. But it will provide 2 kW only with 230 VAC input since a normal socket can deliver only up to 15 A of current.
  • damric
    276663 said:
    Too light for me I have the 2000w coming from Dabs when it comes to retail.


    Where are you from that you need all that power? Cybertron?
  • damric
    1903369 said:
    All tests were conducted at high ambient temperatures which during full load were above 47C. Only the Cross-Load tests were conducted at 28-30C.


    47C ambients? Must have been sweating your language, please off, or you are language, please me.
  • Dark Lord of Tech
    I'm going to power my Skynet build with it.
  • damric
    276663 said:
    I'm going to power my Skynet build with it.


    One day you need to show us a picture of everything. I've seen little snapshots here and there, but I'd like to see it all in one thread.
  • Dark Lord of Tech
    I'm starting a white and black build , a Snow Beast , next week.
  • damric
    With the Krait motherboard? Or is there another white/black?
  • Dark Lord of Tech
    No way this one.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132414
  • damric
    Oh wow I haven't seen that yet.
  • Aris_Mp
    410076 said:
    1903369 said:
    All tests were conducted at high ambient temperatures which during full load were above 47C. Only the Cross-Load tests were conducted at 28-30C.
    47C ambients? Must have been sweating your language, please off, or you are language, pleaseing me.


    The PSU is inside a special-made box (hot-box) for the high temp tests.
  • Dark Lord of Tech
    Sweet board going to order it on monday.
  • damric
    1903369 said:
    410076 said:
    1903369 said:
    All tests were conducted at high ambient temperatures which during full load were above 47C. Only the Cross-Load tests were conducted at 28-30C.
    47C ambients? Must have been sweating your language, pleaseoff, or you are language, pleaseing me.
    The PSU is inside a special-made box (hot-box) for the high temp tests.


    Wouldn't your FLIR show that the box is hot?
  • Aris_Mp
    no point since the box is insulated so from the outside the temperature will be lower. Also if i open the lid to take a snapshot with FLIR the temperature will drop immediately by 5 C at least (ambient) messing with the test.

    I already know what happens inside the box thanks to two temperature probes I have installed in it, so no need to use my FLIR on it. However on next review I will try it.
  • damric
    1903369 said:
    no point since the box is insulated so from the outside the temperature will be lower. Also if i open the lid to take a snapshot with FLIR the temperature will drop immediately by 5 C at least (ambient) messing with the test. I already know what happens inside the box thanks to two temperature probes I have installed in it, so no need to use my FLIR on it. However on next review I will try it.


    Fair enough. It will be excellent when Tom's Hardware adopts a consistent review standard. Yours was one of the best PSU reviews yet. There's other nitpicks I have but they are nothing major like chart/graph formats could be easier to read.

    In your opinion everything held up in close to 50C conditions then?
  • loki1944
    Nice, if I ever go 3-4 way SLI I'll upgrade to this from my 1300W G2.
  • ykki
    Quote:
    I'm going to power my Skynet build with it.

    Dont forget the OFF switch. Arnold is a busy man.
  • Aris_Mp
    "In your opinion everything help up in close to 50C conditions then?"

    around 45C is much more realistic. 50C are too much for modern chassis. However when needed I crank up the heat inside my hot box to see how the PSU performs. Like in this case that I deliberately exceeded my usual 45C and went to almost 48.
  • g00ey
    The "Power Specifications" table on the second page is wrong. The third line must be "Maximum Watts" and not "Maximum Volts". Moreover, the Wattage calculation for the 3.3V rail is missing (should be 3.3*24 given that the maximum amperage for the 3.3V rail is 24A, this must be verified). The value 120 (W or VA) must be for the 5V rail since 5V*24A=120 VA/W...

    Also note that I'm making a distinction between Watts (W) and Volt-Amperes (VA) although they have the same dimension. The reason is this:

    http://electronicdesign.com/energy/what-s-difference-between-watts-and-volt-amperes

    I hope you do the same.
  • Aris_Mp
    275838 said:
    The "Power Specifications" table on the second page is wrong. The third line must be "Maximum Watts" and not "Maximum Volts". Moreover, the Wattage calculation for the 3.3V rail is missing (should be 3.3*24 given that the maximum amperage for the 3.3V rail is 24A, this must be verified). The value 120 (W or VA) must be for the 5V rail since 5V*24A=120 VA/W... Also note that I'm making a distinction between Watts (W) and Volt-Amperes (VA) although they have the same dimension. The reason is this: http://electronicdesign.com/energy/what-s-difference-between-watts-and-volt-amperes I hope you do the same.


    The max power is the combined max power that both rails can deliver. Hence while each rail can go up to 24 A both of them can deliver only up to 120 W (combined). This means that either the 5V rail can go up to 120 W alone (so zero W for the 3.3V one) or the 3.3V rail can go up to 24 A and the 5V at 8.16 A.

    In DC we use Watts. VA is for AC. In DC Watts = VA

    As for the max voltage yeap this will be fixed.