Page 1:Get Your Hack On
Page 2:Task List For DIY EX47* Upgrade
Page 3:Memory Upgrade
Page 4:Benchmarking Standard And Increased Memory Configurations
Page 5:Replace Northbridge Thermal Compound
Page 6:Replace The Stock CPU
Page 7:Benchmarking The EX475 With Sempron 3400+, LE-1640, And BE-2350
Page 8:Swapping The Processor, Step-By-Step
Page 9:Hacking The EX47* MediaSmart BIOS
Page 10:How To Prepare And What To Do If Something Goes Wrong
Page 11:Re-assembling And Testing Your MediaSmart Server
Page 12:A Little Cash, A Little Elbow Grease, And A Little Time
Swapping The Processor, Step-By-Step
The CPU in the EX47* MediaSmart models is passively cooled, which makes the swap-out pretty easy. Here’s how to complete this maneuver, should you decide to do so.
Step 1: Remove the Power and Sensor Cables
start by removing the cables at the far left in this photo, then remove the memory moduleThe EX47* motherboard uses a standard ATX 20-pin power connector (front left) and also includes a 16-pin connector to its right. It’s easier to access the CPU with those connectors out of the way so start by removing them. The power cable requires you to lift the center front latch, then yank and rock it back and forth gently until it starts coming loose, after which you can slide it out and then out of the way. Next, rock the 16-pin connector gently back and forth until it comes loose, then do likewise. Remove the memory module to create more clearance as well.
Step 2: Remove the Heatsink
With luck, the CPU won’t come along when you pull the heatsink freeThe EX47* heatsink is retained by four spring-loaded screws at the corners of the socket. You’ll need to push down a little to engage the screw threads when loosening, then keep turning until you hear a gentle pop that indicates the screw is completely loosened. When all four screws are unfastened from the motherboard, rotate the heatsink gently to the right and left about 10-20 degrees. When it starts to move easily, you should be able to lift it without taking the CPU along with it.
Step 3: Remove the Old CPU
The CPU is locked into its socket with a swing-arm lever you can see at the right of the preceding photo. Pull the level slightly out to the right to clear the locking pins, then rotate it all the up as far as it will go. This unlocks the CPU, after which you can gently lift it out of the socket. Have a piece of scrap cloth or a paper towel handy, so you can deposit the old CPU someplace safe and relatively soft. When you clean the heatsink in the next step, you may also want to clean the old CPU at the same time (especially if you want to sell it on eBay, give it away, or keep it around for another project).
Step 4: Seat the New CPU
Careful attention to the photo shows this to be an LE-1640Making sure to match the gold triangle at the lower left corner of the CPU with the triangle marking at the lower left corner of the socket, drop the CPU into place. It should sink all the way into the socket. If it does not, lift it up and look at the pins. If any are bent, you’ll need to straighten them. Otherwise, you’ll need to make sure the chip is oriented properly to the socket.
Step 5: Clean the Heatsink
You want to remove all the old thermal paste from the heatsink to ensure a clean surface to which the new thermal paste can bond. I keep an old toothbrush around for this job and dunk it into a bottle of 90% isopropyl alcohol to loosen the paste, then wipe it off with scrap cloth or high-quality (cloth-like) paper towels. Thermal paste, especially Arctic Silver, is dark, icky, sticky stuff. Set up a work area before you begin this process and be prepared to get at least a little dirty. I usually lay down a couple of full sheets of newspaper to create a work surface, after which I roll the stuff up and throw it in the trash for easy surface cleanup. When the heatsink is clean, go wash your hands with lots of liquid soap. Otherwise, you risk leaving black fingerprints all over the place.
Step 6: Apply the Thermal Paste
A thin layer of Arctic Silver over the whole top surface does the trick There are as many ways to apply thermal paste to a CPU as there are people to apply it. I usually deposit four small drops in the middle of the four quadrants on the CPU surface, then smooth them out with an old plastic credit card until I have a thin, smooth layer covering the whole surface. Use whatever method works best for you, but try not to lay the thermal paste on too thick. Too much can insulate a connection and can be as bad or worse than not enough.
Step 7: Re-attach the Heatsink
The barcode label goes toward the edge of the board where the power connector sits. Push down lightly on the heatsink as you turn each screw to make sure the threads engage the corresponding tap. Tighten each screw down about half-way as you start, then return in clockwise or counter-clockwise order to tighten them down all the way. Keep turning each screw until it won’t turn anymore, but don’t apply a lot of torque to your screwdriver. This type of heatsink works very well if you simply tighten it down as far as it wants to go, then quit.
Turn the heatsink so the barcode label faces the power connector
Congratulations! You’ve replaced the CPU in your MediaSmart Server. Please consult the next section for instructions on how to hack the BIOS, if you want to install a dual-core CPU. This hack also recognizes the LE-16xx processors as well, so may be worth doing even if you’re going with a newer single-core CPU.
Check prices for HP's MediaSmart EX475
- Get Your Hack On
- Task List For DIY EX47* Upgrade
- Memory Upgrade
- Benchmarking Standard And Increased Memory Configurations
- Replace Northbridge Thermal Compound
- Replace The Stock CPU
- Benchmarking The EX475 With Sempron 3400+, LE-1640, And BE-2350
- Swapping The Processor, Step-By-Step
- Hacking The EX47* MediaSmart BIOS
- How To Prepare And What To Do If Something Goes Wrong
- Re-assembling And Testing Your MediaSmart Server
- A Little Cash, A Little Elbow Grease, And A Little Time