With a better grasp of the components on our motherboard, we can take a closer look at how they affect layout, and how layout is affected by them. I'm using the same Biostar motherboard from the previous page, since its high-contrast color scheme makes connectors easy to see. Now it's sitting upright though, which is how it'd appear in a gamer's tower chassis.

Graphics card spacing is a primary layout consideration in gaming-oriented PCs. The above example spaces its first and second PCIe x16 slots with two single-lane connectors between them, since some of today’s fastest graphics cards have coolers that occupy more than two slot spaces. The same consideration isn’t given to the third PCIe x16 slot because there’s simply no room to put it.
There could have been, though. That top slot corresponds to an ATX case’s second slot opening. Biostar wanted to make extra room between the back of a long graphics card and the DIMM latches, making it easier to add or replace memory with a card already installed.
The board does still support three graphics cards, as long as the thermal solution monopolizes no more than a second slot’s space. Even then, you'll need a case with an eighth slot at the bottom, since a two-slot card would clearly overhang the motherboard. This layout has become so common that a large number of enthusiast-oriented cases now have the requisite extra slot hole.
Six of this motherboard’s seven SATA ports face forward so that the cable ends fit under any heat sink and fan attached to extra-long graphics cards. Most ATX cases are now designed with space behind the lower drive cages for these cables to pass through. The seventh SATA port points straight out from the motherboard’s surface, which is acceptable since it’s located above the top graphics card.
Also notice that the blue USB 3.0 port on the bottom edge is located beneath the white slot's latch. Because USB 3.0 cables are stiff, they cannot be folded over and under a graphics card cooler in the same manner as most other front-panel cables. That means this connector can’t be used if you have a third double-slot graphics card installed. Most newer motherboards place this connector above the top PCIe x16 slot, roughly where this particular platform's outward-facing SATA port is found.
The top edge is preferred for the ATX12V/EPS12V connector because it allows the cable to be pulled up behind the motherboard tray in cases with a power supply mounted at the bottom. Most high-amperage power supplies are built with cables long enough to accommodate such a configuration. This specific board takes up to two eight-pin power connectors for hardcore overclockers who push equally extreme power levels into their CPUs (even though this motherboard’s power regulator doesn’t appear sufficient to overdraw the capacity of a single cable).
The larger 20- or 24-pin ATX/EPS power connector is placed at the motherboard’s front edge to allow easy access in cases with a power supply up top or down below, without blocking the CPU cooler or any expansion slots. Serial ATA cables beneath it are also raised slightly from the lower corner.
Front-panel audio connectors have been a contentious matter since Intel said they should be placed in the lower-rear corner in 1997. Many builders prefer to route this cable behind the motherboard tray. Unfortunately, the cables in many cases are too short to reach. In the image above, Biostar moved its connector forward by around an inch to alleviate an issue caused by Intel and aggravated by careless case companies.
A final layout consideration is fan connector quantity and placement. Biostar's Tpower X79 provides a perfect minimum configuration. It enables a CPU fan connector near the lower-right corner of the processor interface, an exhaust fan header near the supplemental graphics power connector, and an intake fan connector in the front-lower corner. Two intake and two exhaust fan headers are preferable, and connections for any side and top fans should also be considered. Adapters may be used to connect additional fans directly to the power supply, though this method removes the motherboard’s ability to control fan speed.
Admittedly, I am one of the most vocal critics of layout and positioning issues you'll find online, but my goal is to point out possible problems before they cause you trouble, not to eliminate any particular product from further consideration. If SATA port orientation or FP-Audio header placement appears problematic, our case reviews should be able to clear up any doubts.
The fact that memory clearance and slots often get overlooked, its better to have 4 slots for the sake of upgradility. Higher profile sticks often obstruct in cooler installation too.
The chipset part was comprehensive, too. Well ATX form factor is standard nowadays, and given that most mid towers support that, I'd get it over mATX anyday, for more space b/w the components like GPUs.
Also, higher the speed, lower the CL, better the sticks, but the fact that APUs require faster memory for optimal performance, because they use it as VRAM, should be considered. Faster memory helps in OCing too, timings don't matter as much, but yes it should not fall beyond CL11 for 2400MHz.
I too have thought about writing on this subject. Novuake, by all means continue with your effort. More data points are almost always helpful, and we know that newbs sometimes need all the help they can get.
I too have thought about writing on this subject. Novuake, by all means continue with your effort. More data points are almost always helpful, and we know that newbs sometimes need all the help they can get.
Pick a CPU based on the apps you already use (on the PC you didn't build) and plan to use
Pick cards and storage
Pick the size of the PC you want. Make sure it's big enough for your cards and storage
Pick a motherboard that fits those parameters.
The rest is just, well, mostly reassurance
Pick a CPU based on the apps you already use (on the PC you didn't build) and plan to use
Pick cards and storage
Pick the size of the PC you want. Make sure it's big enough for your cards and storage
Pick a motherboard that fits those parameters.
The rest is just, well, mostly reassurance
This is one reasonable synopsis of the process. What is then necessary is a discussion of slots, ports, and desired options for tweaking, particularly relating to performance (e.g. native vs. 3rd party controllers, VRM quality and BIOS options for overclocking, etc), size constraints, with component quality/longevity thrown in as well.
What is needed is a crosstab table of chipsets and the features they support; e.g. RAID versions, USB3.0, SATA 6Gb/s, etc.
1. Decided on whether you want to go with AMD or Intel
2. Pick a board based on the CPU you want to have
3. Look at socket type, socket type must match the CPU you're getting, so if your getting a socket 1150 CPU, the motherboard must also say socket 1150. Same with AMD, AM3+ CPU must have a board that says AM3+
4. Large cases can fit large boards and small boards. But small cases cannot fit large boards. Best to check out the case specs to see what boards will fit.
5. If you want to run 2 video cards, make sure the board has at least 2x PCIe x16 slots. Those that support CFX and SLI will most likely have the CFX or SLI logo on the motherboard box. But check the motherboard manual or do some online research to confirm on it.
6. Rest are just feature you want to have or not like wifi, Bluetooth, or the need for surround sound speakers. Most audio ports will just be Red, Green, Blue Some board will have that as well as Orange, Black, and Grey.
7. Most important, out of all of them is not to rush on it. Do some research and read lots of reviews before buying.
The AM1 socket was a different beast. I'm still not sure why AMD chose this name a second time, with that in mind.
I bought an ECS only because it was the only motherboard that had what I wanted. Yes, I know, I still should not have, but I didn't know just how bad they are. It wouldn't use top of the line memory, wouldn't keep memory timings I put in, constantly lost the time, and had a terribly loud fan, on a processor that topped out at 25 watts. Then it started putting up the wrong display resolution, and wouldn't let me change it to the appropriate values for my monitor. I'd have to reset the firmware, then it would work, then fail again two days later. Pure junk.
Technical support was abysmal as well. They solved nothing, and just kept asking me to do things I had already done, and told them I had already done. Entirely useless. I basically just removed the motherboard once the AM1 platform came out, since it was similar enough (I had an a6-5200, on the KBN-I).
I'll never get another ECS. Even if the motherboard was a lemon, the fact they couldn't assist at all, and had one firmware release a few weeks after the first, and then nothing after that, makes it clear the company isn't very good.
I replaced it with an Asrock, because I wanted DisplayPort (this is another important characteristic of a motherboard, make sure it has the video output that matches your monitor, if you have an existing one you wish to use with it), and no more problems.
So getting a reputable brand is always a good idea.
So, I'm open to suggestions.
So, I'm open to suggestions.
So... some suggestions
Since this article is supposed to be for beginners:
AMD vs Intel -- Need to pick one. why? Pros and cons for both
CPU - Speed, # of cores, hyperthreading. whats good, whats not.. and why? (leave out any overclocking discussions)
RAM - how much? .. what kind? and why?
What chipset do I need/want. And why?
-- note that each point has a "why" component. You seem to have left that out of your article.
(Im leaving out PSU, HDD and GPU)
As noted by @ta152h - the manufacturer of the motherboard matters a lot. Some companies make better boards on average that others. but as with everything there are compromises.. Better companies usually charge more.
next a "how-to" section
- how to make sure the CPU will even FIT the motherboard
- how to make sure the CPU is compatible
- how to pick the right RAM (focus on mainstream compatibility, not overclocking)
- how to make sure the board will fit in my case (or how to pick a case for my motherboard)
- how to pick a good motherboard manufacturer
Lastly - since picking a motherboard usually means the person is building a new system, some basic recommendations would be helpful.
Office/Kitchen system -- no gaming, or VERY light gaming
- lower cost
- high reliability (it wont be replaced anytime soon)
- no overclocking
- onboard graphics (or cheap gpu)
- single HDD: 500gb/1TB HD,
- 4GB ram
- 300-400w PSU
Gaming oriented system
- mid to higher cost
- dedicated GPU (single, no SLI)
- overclocking available, but this is not a beginner subject
- SSD boot drive & mechanical storage drive (2TB+)
- 8GB ram or more
- 650w PSU
Anything beyond that.. and the person in question is not a beginner, so the article does not apply.
So, I'm open to suggestions.
So... some suggestions
Since this article is supposed to be for beginners:
AMD vs Intel -- Need to pick one. why? Pros and cons for both
CPU - Speed, # of cores, hyperthreading. whats good, whats not.. and why? (leave out any overclocking discussions)
RAM - how much? .. what kind? and why?
What chipset do I need/want. And why?
-- note that each point has a "why" component. You seem to have left that out of your article.
(Im leaving out PSU, HDD and GPU)
As noted by @ta152h - the manufacturer of the motherboard matters a lot. Some companies make better boards on average that others. but as with everything there are compromises.. Better companies usually charge more.
next a "how-to" section
- how to make sure the CPU will even FIT the motherboard
- how to make sure the CPU is compatible
- how to pick the right RAM (focus on mainstream compatibility, not overclocking)
- how to make sure the board will fit in my case (or how to pick a case for my motherboard)
- how to pick a good motherboard manufacturer
Lastly - since picking a motherboard usually means the person is building a new system, some basic recommendations would be helpful.
Office/Kitchen system -- no gaming, or VERY light gaming
- lower cost
- high reliability (it wont be replaced anytime soon)
- no overclocking
- onboard graphics (or cheap gpu)
- single HDD: 500gb/1TB HD,
- 4GB ram
- 300-400w PSU
Gaming oriented system
- mid to higher cost
- dedicated GPU (single, no SLI)
- overclocking available, but this is not a beginner subject
- SSD boot drive & mechanical storage drive (2TB+)
- 8GB ram or more
- 650w PSU
Anything beyond that.. and the person in question is not a beginner, so the article does not apply.
I see what you're saying, but what I think you're really asking for are a CPU guide for beginners, a DRAM guide for beginners, a storage guide for beginners, and more "about you" stuff in the "how to build a computer" guide.
That last thing, maybe an introductory article like "Beginner's Guide To Beginner's Guides: PC Tech 099"
I don't care if the mother board will fly some high party lan or other things. I never used the ie 1394 plus E-sata...
for now i got only asrock motherboards because sound nice with my edifier and my akg headphone.