While large manufacturers are free to build PCs in whatever shape they desire, ATX and its derivatives dominate the do-it-yourself market. Smaller variations of ATX limit the room you have for expansion and make you more reliant on integrated or external devices, while allowing compact system dimensions. Even as advancements in on-board audio and network controllers have improved those subsystems to the point where you don't need add-in cards with those capabilities, on-die graphics are still fairly anemic. Unless you're only performing productivity tasks and watching video on your PC, you'll probably want a discrete card for 3D tasks. While office systems and media players may serve a fixed role throughout their useful lives, it's a good idea to have at least some room for expansion cards when building a multipurpose configuration.
ATX Through Mini-ITX
ATX was designed to address three major shortcomings of the earlier AT form factor, and it offers a few minor improvements as well. First, a designated portion of the board for the CPU socket keeps it out of the way of long cards, where AT boards had the CPU mounted behind or in place of card slots. Second, the inclusion of an I/O panel on the motherboard itself negates the need for slot brackets to break out common connections like USB, Ethernet, and audio. Third, a cooling path from the lower-front to the upper-rear of the case vents heated air through the power supply and/or an exhaust fan. All three major advancements are centered on splitting the board between the expansion and CPU areas.
Most significant of the more minor improvements was the addition of a power switch on the motherboard, rather than the power supply. This allowed the system to turn itself off at shutdown, and made possible features like wake-on-ring (using a modem), wake-on-LAN (using a network adapter), timed power up/power down, and keyboard power-on hot-buttons.
ATX derivatives are based on the same CPU section, so that smaller motherboards are able to fit into larger cases if desired. ATX standards include microATX and FlexATX. Most Shuttle-style PC cubes (often called SFF for Shuttle Form Factor or Small Form Factor) use a two-slot variation of the FlexATX form factor cut to approximately eight inches, and VIA further shortened its mini-ITX form factor to 6.75 inches by reducing the maximum slot count to one.
ATX size specifications are based on fractional inches, and rounding to the nearest millimeter is the most likely reason why the mounting holes of many motherboards are slightly misaligned with the mounting points of many cases. Even the originator of ATX, Intel, rounds the dimensions of recent specification updates when converting from original inch designations.

The image above compares the maximum size and maximum number of slots allowed on various ATX-based form factors, with dashed lines indicating how the mounting holes in smaller boards still align with those of larger cases. It also shows a long-forgotten solution to the problems of mini-ITX.
Before there were any high-performance products based on the mini-ITX form factor, AMD attempted to standardize Shuttle-style gaming cubes with a newer specification called DTX. Its single-slot derivative, mini-DTX, resembles mini-ITX except that it’s deeper, which makes room for four memory modules and a full-sized CPU voltage regulator. While most mini-ITX-optimized gaming cases are designed to hold a DTX motherboard, persistence of the mini-ITX moniker has prevented motherboard makers from taking advantage of the extra depth. As shown above, the same rule of “smaller motherboard fits larger case” applies.
Over The Top (Or Under The Bottom)
Oversized motherboards have existed for as long as any of the form factors mentioned above. One of the oldest is EATX, with its 13” depth (front to rear). Foxconn’s attempt to develop a 10-slot form factor succeeded only in introducing 10-slot cases to the market, and other manufacturers responded to the new cases by producing nine-slot-tall (13.6”) XL-ATX motherboards that can use the case’s tenth slot to hold a thick graphics card in the platform's bottom slot. The associated cases are specified as XL-ATX-compatible, and they'll still hold a full range of smaller boards down to mini-ITX.

The fact that memory clearance and slots often get overlooked, its better to have 4 slots for the sake of upgradility. Higher profile sticks often obstruct in cooler installation too.
The chipset part was comprehensive, too. Well ATX form factor is standard nowadays, and given that most mid towers support that, I'd get it over mATX anyday, for more space b/w the components like GPUs.
Also, higher the speed, lower the CL, better the sticks, but the fact that APUs require faster memory for optimal performance, because they use it as VRAM, should be considered. Faster memory helps in OCing too, timings don't matter as much, but yes it should not fall beyond CL11 for 2400MHz.
I too have thought about writing on this subject. Novuake, by all means continue with your effort. More data points are almost always helpful, and we know that newbs sometimes need all the help they can get.
I too have thought about writing on this subject. Novuake, by all means continue with your effort. More data points are almost always helpful, and we know that newbs sometimes need all the help they can get.
Pick a CPU based on the apps you already use (on the PC you didn't build) and plan to use
Pick cards and storage
Pick the size of the PC you want. Make sure it's big enough for your cards and storage
Pick a motherboard that fits those parameters.
The rest is just, well, mostly reassurance
Pick a CPU based on the apps you already use (on the PC you didn't build) and plan to use
Pick cards and storage
Pick the size of the PC you want. Make sure it's big enough for your cards and storage
Pick a motherboard that fits those parameters.
The rest is just, well, mostly reassurance
This is one reasonable synopsis of the process. What is then necessary is a discussion of slots, ports, and desired options for tweaking, particularly relating to performance (e.g. native vs. 3rd party controllers, VRM quality and BIOS options for overclocking, etc), size constraints, with component quality/longevity thrown in as well.
What is needed is a crosstab table of chipsets and the features they support; e.g. RAID versions, USB3.0, SATA 6Gb/s, etc.
1. Decided on whether you want to go with AMD or Intel
2. Pick a board based on the CPU you want to have
3. Look at socket type, socket type must match the CPU you're getting, so if your getting a socket 1150 CPU, the motherboard must also say socket 1150. Same with AMD, AM3+ CPU must have a board that says AM3+
4. Large cases can fit large boards and small boards. But small cases cannot fit large boards. Best to check out the case specs to see what boards will fit.
5. If you want to run 2 video cards, make sure the board has at least 2x PCIe x16 slots. Those that support CFX and SLI will most likely have the CFX or SLI logo on the motherboard box. But check the motherboard manual or do some online research to confirm on it.
6. Rest are just feature you want to have or not like wifi, Bluetooth, or the need for surround sound speakers. Most audio ports will just be Red, Green, Blue Some board will have that as well as Orange, Black, and Grey.
7. Most important, out of all of them is not to rush on it. Do some research and read lots of reviews before buying.
The AM1 socket was a different beast. I'm still not sure why AMD chose this name a second time, with that in mind.
I bought an ECS only because it was the only motherboard that had what I wanted. Yes, I know, I still should not have, but I didn't know just how bad they are. It wouldn't use top of the line memory, wouldn't keep memory timings I put in, constantly lost the time, and had a terribly loud fan, on a processor that topped out at 25 watts. Then it started putting up the wrong display resolution, and wouldn't let me change it to the appropriate values for my monitor. I'd have to reset the firmware, then it would work, then fail again two days later. Pure junk.
Technical support was abysmal as well. They solved nothing, and just kept asking me to do things I had already done, and told them I had already done. Entirely useless. I basically just removed the motherboard once the AM1 platform came out, since it was similar enough (I had an a6-5200, on the KBN-I).
I'll never get another ECS. Even if the motherboard was a lemon, the fact they couldn't assist at all, and had one firmware release a few weeks after the first, and then nothing after that, makes it clear the company isn't very good.
I replaced it with an Asrock, because I wanted DisplayPort (this is another important characteristic of a motherboard, make sure it has the video output that matches your monitor, if you have an existing one you wish to use with it), and no more problems.
So getting a reputable brand is always a good idea.
So, I'm open to suggestions.
So, I'm open to suggestions.
So... some suggestions
Since this article is supposed to be for beginners:
AMD vs Intel -- Need to pick one. why? Pros and cons for both
CPU - Speed, # of cores, hyperthreading. whats good, whats not.. and why? (leave out any overclocking discussions)
RAM - how much? .. what kind? and why?
What chipset do I need/want. And why?
-- note that each point has a "why" component. You seem to have left that out of your article.
(Im leaving out PSU, HDD and GPU)
As noted by @ta152h - the manufacturer of the motherboard matters a lot. Some companies make better boards on average that others. but as with everything there are compromises.. Better companies usually charge more.
next a "how-to" section
- how to make sure the CPU will even FIT the motherboard
- how to make sure the CPU is compatible
- how to pick the right RAM (focus on mainstream compatibility, not overclocking)
- how to make sure the board will fit in my case (or how to pick a case for my motherboard)
- how to pick a good motherboard manufacturer
Lastly - since picking a motherboard usually means the person is building a new system, some basic recommendations would be helpful.
Office/Kitchen system -- no gaming, or VERY light gaming
- lower cost
- high reliability (it wont be replaced anytime soon)
- no overclocking
- onboard graphics (or cheap gpu)
- single HDD: 500gb/1TB HD,
- 4GB ram
- 300-400w PSU
Gaming oriented system
- mid to higher cost
- dedicated GPU (single, no SLI)
- overclocking available, but this is not a beginner subject
- SSD boot drive & mechanical storage drive (2TB+)
- 8GB ram or more
- 650w PSU
Anything beyond that.. and the person in question is not a beginner, so the article does not apply.
So, I'm open to suggestions.
So... some suggestions
Since this article is supposed to be for beginners:
AMD vs Intel -- Need to pick one. why? Pros and cons for both
CPU - Speed, # of cores, hyperthreading. whats good, whats not.. and why? (leave out any overclocking discussions)
RAM - how much? .. what kind? and why?
What chipset do I need/want. And why?
-- note that each point has a "why" component. You seem to have left that out of your article.
(Im leaving out PSU, HDD and GPU)
As noted by @ta152h - the manufacturer of the motherboard matters a lot. Some companies make better boards on average that others. but as with everything there are compromises.. Better companies usually charge more.
next a "how-to" section
- how to make sure the CPU will even FIT the motherboard
- how to make sure the CPU is compatible
- how to pick the right RAM (focus on mainstream compatibility, not overclocking)
- how to make sure the board will fit in my case (or how to pick a case for my motherboard)
- how to pick a good motherboard manufacturer
Lastly - since picking a motherboard usually means the person is building a new system, some basic recommendations would be helpful.
Office/Kitchen system -- no gaming, or VERY light gaming
- lower cost
- high reliability (it wont be replaced anytime soon)
- no overclocking
- onboard graphics (or cheap gpu)
- single HDD: 500gb/1TB HD,
- 4GB ram
- 300-400w PSU
Gaming oriented system
- mid to higher cost
- dedicated GPU (single, no SLI)
- overclocking available, but this is not a beginner subject
- SSD boot drive & mechanical storage drive (2TB+)
- 8GB ram or more
- 650w PSU
Anything beyond that.. and the person in question is not a beginner, so the article does not apply.
I see what you're saying, but what I think you're really asking for are a CPU guide for beginners, a DRAM guide for beginners, a storage guide for beginners, and more "about you" stuff in the "how to build a computer" guide.
That last thing, maybe an introductory article like "Beginner's Guide To Beginner's Guides: PC Tech 099"
I don't care if the mother board will fly some high party lan or other things. I never used the ie 1394 plus E-sata...
for now i got only asrock motherboards because sound nice with my edifier and my akg headphone.