Firmware is a simplified software layer that tells an operating system how to use hardware. Previous 16-bit versions called BIOS (Basic Input/Output System) have given way to newer UEFI structures that virtually eliminate hardware configuration times experienced when loading the OS. Yet, many users are afraid to enter the UEFI interface the first time due to their lack of experience.
How does one get experience without…the experience? Two ways to preview this information are to read reviews or download the manual, but learning how to use these requires a more careful reading of both reviews and how-to articles, such as our BIOS for Beginners. Even though UEFI has allowed companies to greatly expand their GUIs, most of the same settings remain.
Performance-oriented motherboards usually have far more adjustments available than lower-market boards, with more detailed memory settings and on-board feature controls in addition to overclocking options. For certain components, this is an either/or proposition. Memory can often be configured with either enhanced latencies or higher frequencies. CPU overclocking is an option for those who desire the greatest performance. Underclocking is another option for users who seek the quietest possible air cooling and/or lower energy consumption.
Besides performance tuning and commonly used settings, such as boot device order, the BIOS also allows the disabling of undesired on-board features like audio controllers, modem and network interfaces, and unused ATA/SATA controllers. Once disabled, these devices no longer consume resources and no longer need to be configured by Windows. There is no excuse for PC enthusiasts to claim that they don't want certain on-board features because of a performance penalty; they're easy to disable, after all.
Final Thoughts
Buying a motherboard shouldn't be difficult. Simply choose a processor, a chipset, your preferred form factor, and expansion devices. Then, pick the motherboard that most closely matches those needs. But even experts can stumble when a specific build requirement puts these decisions out of order, creating issues like "who makes a microATX board with the chipset I want?" In the end, buyers of all experience levels are often forced to modify their selection criteria.
If you've pre-selected anything other than a full-sized ATX case, be prepared to make compromises. The smaller boards that fit in smaller cases often have fully-integrated mainstream chipsets rather than top performance parts. Be prepared to accept on-board devices you won't use since they can be disabled, and try not to be upset about paying for unwanted features, since a motherboard custom-produced to match your specific needs would be far more expensive than one designed for everyone's needs somewhat similar to yours.
Luckily, beginners have access to all the resources that professionals use to determine their needs, through review sites like ours and support communities like our Community Forums.
Author's Opinion
Too often have the latest trends come between the first-time builder and his or her perfect system. Watching as hundreds of readers flock to our Forums to find out how to put full-sized components into pint-sized systems, my first instinct is to tell anyone to "go big". Choosing a full-sized motherboard, power supply, and case offers a lot of assurance when it comes time for the next upgrade, but most users looking for full-sized features in a smaller chassis can find suitable alternatives—with enough effort.
The fact that memory clearance and slots often get overlooked, its better to have 4 slots for the sake of upgradility. Higher profile sticks often obstruct in cooler installation too.
The chipset part was comprehensive, too. Well ATX form factor is standard nowadays, and given that most mid towers support that, I'd get it over mATX anyday, for more space b/w the components like GPUs.
Also, higher the speed, lower the CL, better the sticks, but the fact that APUs require faster memory for optimal performance, because they use it as VRAM, should be considered. Faster memory helps in OCing too, timings don't matter as much, but yes it should not fall beyond CL11 for 2400MHz.
I too have thought about writing on this subject. Novuake, by all means continue with your effort. More data points are almost always helpful, and we know that newbs sometimes need all the help they can get.
I too have thought about writing on this subject. Novuake, by all means continue with your effort. More data points are almost always helpful, and we know that newbs sometimes need all the help they can get.
Pick a CPU based on the apps you already use (on the PC you didn't build) and plan to use
Pick cards and storage
Pick the size of the PC you want. Make sure it's big enough for your cards and storage
Pick a motherboard that fits those parameters.
The rest is just, well, mostly reassurance
Pick a CPU based on the apps you already use (on the PC you didn't build) and plan to use
Pick cards and storage
Pick the size of the PC you want. Make sure it's big enough for your cards and storage
Pick a motherboard that fits those parameters.
The rest is just, well, mostly reassurance
This is one reasonable synopsis of the process. What is then necessary is a discussion of slots, ports, and desired options for tweaking, particularly relating to performance (e.g. native vs. 3rd party controllers, VRM quality and BIOS options for overclocking, etc), size constraints, with component quality/longevity thrown in as well.
What is needed is a crosstab table of chipsets and the features they support; e.g. RAID versions, USB3.0, SATA 6Gb/s, etc.
1. Decided on whether you want to go with AMD or Intel
2. Pick a board based on the CPU you want to have
3. Look at socket type, socket type must match the CPU you're getting, so if your getting a socket 1150 CPU, the motherboard must also say socket 1150. Same with AMD, AM3+ CPU must have a board that says AM3+
4. Large cases can fit large boards and small boards. But small cases cannot fit large boards. Best to check out the case specs to see what boards will fit.
5. If you want to run 2 video cards, make sure the board has at least 2x PCIe x16 slots. Those that support CFX and SLI will most likely have the CFX or SLI logo on the motherboard box. But check the motherboard manual or do some online research to confirm on it.
6. Rest are just feature you want to have or not like wifi, Bluetooth, or the need for surround sound speakers. Most audio ports will just be Red, Green, Blue Some board will have that as well as Orange, Black, and Grey.
7. Most important, out of all of them is not to rush on it. Do some research and read lots of reviews before buying.
The AM1 socket was a different beast. I'm still not sure why AMD chose this name a second time, with that in mind.
I bought an ECS only because it was the only motherboard that had what I wanted. Yes, I know, I still should not have, but I didn't know just how bad they are. It wouldn't use top of the line memory, wouldn't keep memory timings I put in, constantly lost the time, and had a terribly loud fan, on a processor that topped out at 25 watts. Then it started putting up the wrong display resolution, and wouldn't let me change it to the appropriate values for my monitor. I'd have to reset the firmware, then it would work, then fail again two days later. Pure junk.
Technical support was abysmal as well. They solved nothing, and just kept asking me to do things I had already done, and told them I had already done. Entirely useless. I basically just removed the motherboard once the AM1 platform came out, since it was similar enough (I had an a6-5200, on the KBN-I).
I'll never get another ECS. Even if the motherboard was a lemon, the fact they couldn't assist at all, and had one firmware release a few weeks after the first, and then nothing after that, makes it clear the company isn't very good.
I replaced it with an Asrock, because I wanted DisplayPort (this is another important characteristic of a motherboard, make sure it has the video output that matches your monitor, if you have an existing one you wish to use with it), and no more problems.
So getting a reputable brand is always a good idea.
So, I'm open to suggestions.
So, I'm open to suggestions.
So... some suggestions
Since this article is supposed to be for beginners:
AMD vs Intel -- Need to pick one. why? Pros and cons for both
CPU - Speed, # of cores, hyperthreading. whats good, whats not.. and why? (leave out any overclocking discussions)
RAM - how much? .. what kind? and why?
What chipset do I need/want. And why?
-- note that each point has a "why" component. You seem to have left that out of your article.
(Im leaving out PSU, HDD and GPU)
As noted by @ta152h - the manufacturer of the motherboard matters a lot. Some companies make better boards on average that others. but as with everything there are compromises.. Better companies usually charge more.
next a "how-to" section
- how to make sure the CPU will even FIT the motherboard
- how to make sure the CPU is compatible
- how to pick the right RAM (focus on mainstream compatibility, not overclocking)
- how to make sure the board will fit in my case (or how to pick a case for my motherboard)
- how to pick a good motherboard manufacturer
Lastly - since picking a motherboard usually means the person is building a new system, some basic recommendations would be helpful.
Office/Kitchen system -- no gaming, or VERY light gaming
- lower cost
- high reliability (it wont be replaced anytime soon)
- no overclocking
- onboard graphics (or cheap gpu)
- single HDD: 500gb/1TB HD,
- 4GB ram
- 300-400w PSU
Gaming oriented system
- mid to higher cost
- dedicated GPU (single, no SLI)
- overclocking available, but this is not a beginner subject
- SSD boot drive & mechanical storage drive (2TB+)
- 8GB ram or more
- 650w PSU
Anything beyond that.. and the person in question is not a beginner, so the article does not apply.
So, I'm open to suggestions.
So... some suggestions
Since this article is supposed to be for beginners:
AMD vs Intel -- Need to pick one. why? Pros and cons for both
CPU - Speed, # of cores, hyperthreading. whats good, whats not.. and why? (leave out any overclocking discussions)
RAM - how much? .. what kind? and why?
What chipset do I need/want. And why?
-- note that each point has a "why" component. You seem to have left that out of your article.
(Im leaving out PSU, HDD and GPU)
As noted by @ta152h - the manufacturer of the motherboard matters a lot. Some companies make better boards on average that others. but as with everything there are compromises.. Better companies usually charge more.
next a "how-to" section
- how to make sure the CPU will even FIT the motherboard
- how to make sure the CPU is compatible
- how to pick the right RAM (focus on mainstream compatibility, not overclocking)
- how to make sure the board will fit in my case (or how to pick a case for my motherboard)
- how to pick a good motherboard manufacturer
Lastly - since picking a motherboard usually means the person is building a new system, some basic recommendations would be helpful.
Office/Kitchen system -- no gaming, or VERY light gaming
- lower cost
- high reliability (it wont be replaced anytime soon)
- no overclocking
- onboard graphics (or cheap gpu)
- single HDD: 500gb/1TB HD,
- 4GB ram
- 300-400w PSU
Gaming oriented system
- mid to higher cost
- dedicated GPU (single, no SLI)
- overclocking available, but this is not a beginner subject
- SSD boot drive & mechanical storage drive (2TB+)
- 8GB ram or more
- 650w PSU
Anything beyond that.. and the person in question is not a beginner, so the article does not apply.
I see what you're saying, but what I think you're really asking for are a CPU guide for beginners, a DRAM guide for beginners, a storage guide for beginners, and more "about you" stuff in the "how to build a computer" guide.
That last thing, maybe an introductory article like "Beginner's Guide To Beginner's Guides: PC Tech 099"
I don't care if the mother board will fly some high party lan or other things. I never used the ie 1394 plus E-sata...
for now i got only asrock motherboards because sound nice with my edifier and my akg headphone.