PSU: Coolermaster RS850-EMBA
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We looked around for a powerful and modern power supply unit. It's tough to pick the best product, as there have been various products with high output and 80+% energy efficiency. Cost wasn't an issue, and we wanted something really solid to support dual, triple and quad graphics setups, so our choice was the RS850-EMBA by Coolermaster Compare Prices on Cooler Master RS850-EMBA , which reaches more than 85% efficiency at low noise levels. It provides a sustained maximum power of 850 W and a peak power of 1,000 W, and is backed by a three-year factory warranty.
This PSU has a total of six 12 V rails, four of them delivering 18 A and two of them 28 A each. The 5 V rail is rated at a maximum of 30 A and the device will deliver 25 A at 3.3 V. Have a look at the label photo below to get an overview of this PSU's power distribution.
There is a modular version, the RS850-ESBA; our version, the RS850-EMBA, comes with the full set of ATX 2.3 / EPS 2.91 power connectors, 90-260 V input voltage auto-sensing, four 6-pin PCI Express aux connectors, two 8-pin aux connectors, six Molex connectors, eight SATA power connectors and two legacy 4-pin floppy connectors. That should really be enough for everyone.
We found a little drawback, though: this product does not have a physical power switch, which means that it'll draw a few watts of standby power all the time. this also means that you'll have to physically unplug it if you go on vacation and want to switch everything completely off.


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I happened to buy smart or dumb enough to pretty much buy this rig a few - several months after it came out... I'm just now looking into OC'ing it. If anyone's got good links to tut's I'm game
*I bought this rig several months ago and have LOVED it. I'm just now looking into OC'ing it. If anyone's got good links to tut's I'm game.*
THANKS!
Not sure what happened there w/the prev...
Why do you use awful color schemes like this in your graphs? Yesterday's $1,250 machine benchmark graphs were the first I had actually been able to easily read. Light/Dark + Blue/Green/Red makes SO much sense. I can easily tell which system is which, and which bar is the overclocked bar. Blue, Green, Red, Purple shows no information on whether it is overclocked or not, and does not provide an easy way to tell which system is which.
To make things worse, the key at the bottom of every graph (that I have to look at every time) is always in a different order.
Can we please have more graphs like the $1,250 build?
wrong article, sorry.